With its abundance of historic art and architecture, Troyes certainly
merits its status as a city of art and history. Situated in the
northeast of France, in the Seine Valley about 150 km southeast of
Paris, it is the capital of the Aube department and the second most
populated city in the Champagne-Ardenne region after Reims.
Founded way back in Gallo-Roman times, Troyes became immensely wealthy
in the Middle Ages through its great fairs and then prospered for
several centuries through its hosiery industry. It derives its
name from its earliest inhabitants, a Gallic tribe known as the
Tricasses.
In 484, the Frankish king Clovis conquered Troyes and the surrounding
area, which came to be known as Champagne (after its vast chalk
plains). The city was attacked several times in the 8th and 9th
centuries, by the Spanish Saracens and the Normans. It was
at Troyes that Louis II received the imperial crown from Pope John
VIII. Between the 10th and 12th centuries, the county of Troyes
was joined with several of its neighbours to form the duchy of
Champagne, with Troyes its capital. During the 12th and 13th
centuries, Troyes grew immensely wealthy through its fairs, which
attracted merchants from all over Europe. In 1283, Champagne was
allied to the kingdom of France through the marriage of Joan I of
Navarre to the future Philip IV. During the 100 Years War, the
Paris
Parlement took up
temporary residence in Troyes, and it was here, in 1420, that the
Treaty of Troyes was drafted,
acknowledging the English King Henry V as the legitimate heir to the
throne of France following his marriage to Catherine de Valois.
In 1524, the city was ravaged by a great fire which destroyed much of
its historic architecture. In the 16th century Troyes became a
major manufacturer of hosiery, and this would remain one of its chief
industries right up until the middle of the 20th century. In the
1960s, Troyes' hosiery industry struggled to compete with cheaper
imports from the Far East, but today textiles manufacturing continues
to be one of the city's main breadwinners.
Although much of the medieval city was destroyed in the fire of 1524,
there are still many old streets with half-timbered houses which evoke
the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. Some notable examples of
Renaissance architecture include the
Hôtel
de Marisy and the
Hôtel
du Lion Noir, which date from the 16th century. The fact
that Troyes was pretty well unscathed by the two world wars of the 20th
century means that it has retained a large and fine collection of
sacred buildings. Its
Cathédrale
Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul is particularly impressive, a huge
Gothic cathedral that dates back to the 13th century but which has been
partially rebuilt over the centuries after being assailed by various
natural disasters. Like many French churches, it was ransacked
during the Revolution and its gold treasures melted down.
The cathedral is noted for its ornate façade and highly detailed
stained glass windows.
Other churches that merit a visit are: the
Basilique Saint-Urbain, a 13th
century Gothic church with glazed roof tiles;
l'Église Saint-Nizier, a
16th century Gothic church renowned for the quality of its stained
glass windows and sculptures depicting Christ, the Virgin Mary and
Saint-Sépulcre;
l'Église
Sainte-Madeleine, the oldest surviving church in the city
(dating from the 13th century), distinguished by its stained glass
window of the Creation; and
l'Église
Saint-Jean-du-Marché, a 13th century Gothic church,
rebuilt in the 16th century, in which Henry V married Catherine de
Valois, daughter of Charles VI. Another of Troyes's prime
historical monuments is its 17th century
Hôtel de ville (City Hall),
one of the few buildings in France to have retained above its entrance
the slogan of the French Revolution in its original form:
Liberté, égalité,
fraternité, ou la mort.
Troyes has many museums which are dedicated to preserving and
exhibiting the city's rich cultural heritage. Situated in the
St-Loup Abbey, the
Musée des
Beaux-Arts et d'Archéologie displays a large collection
comprising paintings, sculptures, objets d'art and archaeological
artefacts, with work by such diverse artists as Watteau, Boucher, David
and Géricault. This is complemented by the
Musée d'art moderne de Troyes,
which is housed in the former Bishop's Palace of the 16th-17th
centuries. St-Loup Abbey also accommodates a respectable natural
history museum. Other interesting museums include:
la Maison de l'outil et de la
pensée ouvrière, which offers a mind-boggling
collection of craftsmen's tools;
le
Musée de Vauluisant, dedicated to Troyes's association
with the hosiery business; and
le
Musée Di Marco, which is devoted to the artwork of the
Angelo Di Marco, who specialised in illustrating news stories in the
French press.
Troyes's train station,
Gare de
Troyes, provides frequent connections to Paris, Dijon, Reims,
Mulhouse and also services to other towns in the Champagne region.