Avignon is historically one of the most important cities in France and
continues to be a major cultural centre, world-renowned for its main
summer arts event, the Festival d'Avignon. It is the capital of
the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur region
and is situated on the left (southern) bank of the River Rhône,
just a few kilometres from its confluence with the River Durance.
Avignon is one of the few French cities to have retained its defensive
walls, which circumscribe the historic city centre, and is known as the
Cité des papes (City of
Popes) because the papacy resided there from 1309 to 1423.
Steeped in history and beautiful architecture, Avignon is one of the
highlights of Provence and is a must-see destination for any visitor to
the region.
Whilst the area around Avignon has been inhabited since Neolithic
times, the city itself dates from the 6th century BC and was founded by
the Phoenicians of Marseilles. Originally named Aouenion (after
its Gaulish inhabitants, the Avenionsios), this became a thriving hub
of trade in the province
Gallia
Narbonensis in Roman times. In the 5th century, it was
pillaged by the Goths and came under the control of the
Burgundians. Over the next five hundred years, Avignon changed
hands many times as it was repeatedly invaded by the Franks, the
Merovingians and the Saracens. In 932, when the kingdom of Arles
was formed from the union of the kingdoms of Provence and Upper
Burgandy, Avignon became one of its most important cities. In
1032, the kingdom of Arles formed an alliance with the Holy Roman
Empire, but with its own consular government. Avignon
declared itself an independent republic in the 12th century but in 1226
it came under the control of the counts of Anjou and Poitiers.
Avignon's status changed drastically in the 14th century when it became
the residence of the popes. With Rome descending into anarchy,
Pope Clement V willingly accepted an invitation from King Philip IV of
France to settle in Avignon (not realising that the king's motivation
was to increase his control over the papacy). Thus began
the Catholic Church's
Babylonian
Captivity. From 1309 to 1377, seven Popes would reside in
Avignon, initiating lavish building projects (including an enormous
papal palace) that would transform the city, whilst attracting swarms
of artists, merchants and charlatans eager to relieve them of their
wealth. The city's defences were shored up to keep out not only
marauding invaders but also possible plague victims. In 1348, the
papacy bought Avignon from its Angevin masters for 80,000 florins, and
it remained a papal possession right up until the French
Revolution. When Pope Benedict XIII returned to Rome, Avignon
elected its own antipope in 1378, Clement VII, and this led to the
Great Schism. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, Avignon
resisted several attempts made by the French monarchy to take control
of it. It was not until 1791, during the French Revolution, that
it became fully incorporated into France. When the department of
Vaucluse was created in 1793, Avignon was chosen as its capital.
With its winding medieval streets, astonishingly well-preserved ancient
fortifications and abundance of palaces and sacred buildings, it is not
hard to see why Avignon is one of the most visited places in
Provence. Most of the city's architecture dates to the 14th
century, when it was home to the popes and therefore the centre of
Christianity. The historic city centre is enclosed within its 4
km long medieval walls and is dominated by its chief monument, the
Palais des papes (Popes'
Palace). Built between 1316 and 1370, this was the residence of
seven successive popes and two antipopes, easily one of the largest and
most important medieval Gothic structures in Europe. Built on a
rocky outcrop on the northern edge of the city, it comprises the Palais
Vieux (Old Palace) and Palais Neuf (New Palace) and takes up an area of
2.6 acres. Virtually all that remains of the once lavishly
decorated interior are its frescos and elaborate ceiling
decorations. Each summer, the palace's Cour d'honneur serves as
the main venue for the Festival d'Avignon.
Avignon's other well-known landmark is the ruined
Pont Saint-Bénézet.
Built between 1171 and 1185, this originally had a length of 900 m and
spanned the Rhône River between Avignon and
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. Unfortunately, it was sited in an
area that made it susceptible to storm damage, and it had to be rebuilt
many times. Finally, the bridge was abandoned in 1668 when part
of it was demolished by a flood. Today, only four of its original
22 arches remain. The bridge is the one that is referred to in
the well-known French ditty "Sur le pont d'Avignon, l'on y danse l'on y
danse..." (Originally, the song was: "
Sous le pont d'Avignon", and
referred to festivities on the Île de la Barthelasse, rather than
on the bridge itself).
Avignon's attractions do not end with its papal palace and dilapidated
bridge. The city has a wealth of historical architecture, from
its early Gothic churches to its grand mansions built between the 15th
and 18th centuries. One of the oldest sacred buildings is the
partially ruined
Abbaye Saint-Ruf,
a Romanesque abbey built in the 11th and 12th centuries on the site of
an early Christian burial ground.
Notre Dame des Doms is a Romanesque
cathedral of the 12th century which is distinguished by the gilded
statue of the Virgin Mother on top of its west tower. The
Église Saint-Pierre dates
from the late 14th century and is a fine example of Provençal
Gothic with its ornate façade and elegantly carved doors.
Other notable churches include those of St-Didier and St-Agricol,
although perhaps more interesting architecturally are the extravagant
palaces (known as
livrées)
of the wealthy cardinals. Then there is the 17th century baroque
Hôtel des Monnaies,
originally built as a papal mint, but now used as a music school, and
the imposing
Hôtel de Ville,
a more recent building topped by a 14th century belfry.
Avignon's historical and cultural importance is underlined by its array
of museums. Situated in the Livrée de Cambrai, the
Musée Calvet
is the city's principal art gallery and offers an impressive collection
of paintings, sculptures and drawings, as well as displays of porcelain
and metalwork. The paintings include work by Jan Bruegel the
Younger, Jacques-Louis David, Camille Corot, Edouard Manet and Alfred Sisley,
whilst the sculptures offer important pieces by James Pradier and
Camille Claudel. The
Musée
du Petit Palais
(near the Palais des Papes) has a fine collection of Renaissance
paintings of the Avignon school and Italian primitive art, whilst the
Collection Lambert, in the
Hôtel de Caumont, has exhibitions of contemporary art. The
Musée Lapidaire
displays archaeological artefacts from antiquity and medieval
sculpture, housed in the old chapel of a Jesuit College. The
Palais du
Roure is home to a museum that is dedicated to the history of the
region, and the
Musée Requien
is a well-stocked natural history museum.
Avignon's 26 parks and gardens cover a total area of 200
hectares. These include the
Jardin
du rocher des Doms, the Jardin des Carmes and the Parc Chico
Mendès. The
Rochers des
Doms is one of the most picturesque parts of the city, offering
a fantastic view over the Rhône river to the mountains in the
distance.
Each year, the city of Avignon hosts several cultural events, of which
the best-known is the
Festival
d'Avignon. The latter is held in July and embraces a wide
range of performance arts, the high point being several grand
spectacles staged in the
Palais des
Papes. Other festivals include
les Hivernales d'Avignon (a
festival of contemporary dance) and the
Avignon Jazz Festival.
Avignon is connected to Paris and Marseille by a high speed (TGV) rail
line (the journey time to Paris being about three hours). There
is also a standard rail service to other cities in the Provence
region. The main train station, Gare d'Avignon-Centre, is
situated on the southern edge of the old town, just outside the city
walls, whilst the TGV station (Gare d'Avignon TGV) is about 2 km from
the city centre (reached by a shuttle bus). A bus service with 23
lines operates within the town centre. Avignon-Caumont
Airport is located 8 km southeast of Avignon and is used mainly by low
cost airlines (Flybe, CityJet) that provide flights to a limited number
of European destinations (including London, Birmingham, Southampton,
Dublin).