In Gallo-Roman times, Arles was one of the most important cities in
France, a busy inland port that was of great strategic value to
imperial Rome and a major hub of Christianity. Today's Arles, an
unassuming Provençal backwater, may be a mere shadow of its
former self, but many consider it the spiritual heart of Provence,
adorned by its ancient monuments and set in one of the most beautiful
regions of France. It is here than Van Gogh painted some of his
best-known work and it has equally inspired numerous poets and writers,
such as Frédéric Mistral and Alphonse Daudet.
Situated on the banks of the River Rhône, roughly midway between
Nîmes and Marseille, Arles belongs to the department of
Bouches-du-Rhône in the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte
d'Azur. A major centre of culture and tourism, the city hosts
several festivals in the summer and is a must-see destination for all
visitors to the Provence region.
Arles was founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC and was an
important Phoenician trading port. In the 4th century BC, it was
conquered by the Celts, who gave it the name Arelate (from which Arles
derives). The Romans took the town in 123 BC, renamed it Provincia
Narbonensis and developed it into a substantial city, with a new canal link
to the Mediterranean Sea which boosted its river trade. When the
city supported him against his rival Pompey, Julius Caesar raised its
status by establishing a colony for legion veterans. By the 4th
century, Arles had become a city of great importance to the Romans.
Constantine the Great named it the second capital in his empire in 306
AD and it provided a base for Rome's military campaigns for the next
hundred years. It was also an important cultural and
religious centre, a conduit through which Christianity was able to
spread throughout the region. From the late 5th century, Arles
experienced a dramatic period of decline. Taken by the Visigoths
in 476, it subsequently came under the control of the Franks by the
middle of the 6th century, but was then devastated by years of bad
harvests and famine, followed by the Saracen raids of the 8th
century. It was the break-up of the Carolingian dynasty which led
to the creation of the kingdom of Provence, with Arles its
capital. After a turbulent period in which the city passed
between many hands, Arles finally acquired the status of a free city in
the 12th century, a privilege it retained until the French
Revolution. From the 12th to the 16th century, Arles thrived as a
trading port and centre of agriculture, although the city's economy
would be adversely affected by floods, plague and the unrest caused by
France's religious wars. Arles's lucrative river trade (which by
now included the transport of coal as well as wood and wheat) brought
another period of prosperity in the 1700s, although this would be
decimated in the mid-19th century by the arrival of the railways.
Arles's rapid degeneration into a provincial backwater was catastrophic
for the city's economy but this made it an attractive haunt for
artists, most famously the post-impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh,
who produced over 300 paintings and drawings during his stay there in
1888/9. Arles's success as a centre of tourism and culture today
derives in part from its association with Van Gogh, although ironically
none of his work is exhibited in the town.
Arles's historic architecture owes almost everything to the city's two
golden eras, the glory years of its Gallo-Roman phase and its period of
prosperity in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The best known of
Arles's Roman monuments is its amphitheatre,
les Arènes. Built in
the first century BC, this is somewhat less spectacular than the
amphitheatre at Nîmes, owing to the fact that it has lost its
third storey. In the Middle Ages, towers were added as it became
a fortress and it later contained about 200 houses. Today, it is
used for the Easter bullfights and the Rice Festival (prémices
du riz) in September. Arles's other main Roman attraction is the
Classical theatre (
le
théâtre antique), which serves as a pleasant venue
for open-air plays in the summer. Another prominent Roman
landmark is the
Obélisque
d'Arles, a 4th century obelisk which stands at the centre of the
Place de la République,
in front of the town hall. Not far away are the
Thermes de Constantin (Baths of
Constantine), a 4th century bathing complex of which all that remains
are the Caldarium (warm bath) and parts of the Tepidarium (warm air
room) and Hypocaust (under-floor heating system). Dating from the
1st century BC, the underground
Cryptoporticus
consists of three Roman galleries supported by fifty pillars.
This originally served as the foundation for the town's Forum, but was
later used as a store house. To the southeast of the centre lies
Les Alyscamps, an early Christian
necropolis with wooded avenues and ancient tombs, a popular burial site
for over 1500 years and a favourite subject of Van Gogh.
Arles's importance as a major Christian centre of the Middle Ages is
powerfully conveyed by its ancient Gothic cathedral, which dominates
the Place de la République. Built between the 12th and
15th centuries, the
Cathédrale
Saint-Trophime is named after the city's first bishop (St
Trophime) and is one of the most impressive sacred buildings in
Provence. It was here that St Augustine was reputedly consecrated
Archbishop of Canterbury by the city's bishop in 597 and where Charles
IV crowned himself King of Arles in 1365. The cathedral
distinguishes itself with its soaring 40m high bell tower and its
ornately decorated doorway, one of the finest examples of
Provençal stonecarving. The interior is just as
awe-inspiring, with its sculptures, stained glass windows, paintings,
sarcophagi, Gothic chancel and a stunning 20m high nave. Adjacent
to the cathedral is a sumptuously decorated cloister which leads to an
idyllic courtyard.
Many of Arles's other attractions are connected with Vincent Van Gogh,
the artist on whom it had such a profound impact. To the west of the
city centre is
Espace Van Gogh,
the former hospital Hôtel Dieu to which Van Gogh committed
himself during a period of extreme mental disturbance in December
1888. The courtyard and its garden have been restored to how they
were at the time of Van Gogh's stay there. On the outskirts of
the city is
Van Gogh Bridge,
a replica of the wooden bridge across the Canal d'Arles which Van Gogh
sketched and painted many times. The original bridge (Pont du
Langlois) was destroyed in 1926 but has been faithfully reconstructed,
a little nearer to the city centre.
Musée de l'Arles et de la
Provence antiques
is Arles's museum of ancient history, which is housed in a modern
building designed by the architect Henri Ciriani and boasts an
impressive
collection of Roman artefacts, including several sarcophagi. Its
prize exhibit is a bust of Julius Caesar that is dated at 46 BC and was found
by divers in the River Rhône in 2008.
Musée Réattu houses an impressive collection of paintings from the 16th to the 20th
centuries, but is also dedicated to photography and architecture.
The museum is accommodated in the 15th century Commanderie of the Knights
Hospitalers, which was once the residence of the local artist Jacques
Réattu. The pride of the collection is a set of 57
drawings and a
painting by Pablo Picasso. Although none of Van Gogh's work is
exhibited in
the town, the artist is honoured by
Fondation
Van Gogh-Arles, an
exhibition of work by painters, sculptors and photographers, situated
to the west of Les Arènes.
La Place du Forum is Arles's
social hub, a charming little square bordered by trees, terrace cafes
and restaurants. It may lack the grandeur and imposing monuments
of the town's other square,
La Place
de la République, but it has a far more convivial
atmosphere and is the perfect place to relax and recharge after a hard
day's sightseeing. Arles's other attractions include its open-air
markets, which are held each Wednesday and Saturday morning (an ideal
place to obtain fresh produce), and its many summer festivals, the best
known of which is
Rencontres d'Arles,
a major photography event - not forgetting the amazing Provence
countryside which surrounds the city, including the massive Camargue
National Park to the southwest.
Arles's train station,
Gare d'Arles, is situated in the
north of the town. This provides connections to French cities
such as Paris, Marseille and Bordeaux, as well as several regional
towns. Whilst Arles does not have its own airport, it is possible
to reach the city by flying to airports at nearby Nîmes or
Marseille and taking a train or bus into Arles.