Rennes is a major industrial city in the northwest of France, the
administrative and cultural capital of Brittany and the capital of the
Ille-et-Vilaine department. Situated at the confluence of the
Rivers Ille and Vilaine, it is one of the historical capitals of the
Duchy of Brittany, although most of its historic architecture was
destroyed in a fire in 1720. Rebuilt in an austere classical
style, Rennes lacks some of the charm of Brittany's other old towns but
it nonetheless offers some stunning architecture and one the finest art
galleries in France. Rennes is not only a thriving industrial
centre, but also a hub of culture and education, with students making
up a quarter of its population.
It was in the second century BC that the Redones, an ancient tribe of
Gauls, founded Rennes, then named Condate, and made it the capital of
their substantial territory in Armorica. Despite putting up
fierce resistance against the Romans, Condate eventually came under
Roman control and became Condate Riedonum, capital of Civitas Riedonum,
in the first century BC. To protect the city from barbarian
attack, a defensive wall over a kilometre in length was built
around it in the 3rd century AD. Because of its strategic
location and fortifications, the city managed to ward off invaders,
including the Franks, and it was gradually absorbed into the Duchy of
Brittany. In 1491, the Rennais fought a fierce battle against the
French army but Brittany was soon after incorporated into France
through the marriage of the Duchess Anne of Brittany to King Charles
VIII of France. In 1532, Brittany replaced Nantes as the capital
of the Duchy of Brittany and became the seat of the Breton
Parlement. In 1720, three quarters of Rennes was destroyed
in a great fire and the city was thereafter rebuilt in the neo-classical
style. The arrival of a railway line galvanised a period of rapid
expansion in the latter half of the 19th century. Rennes suffered
widespread damage during the Second World War, through allied bombing
and the destruction of its bridges by the retreating German
armies. Rennes experienced further growth in the 20th century,
with its traditional industries such as banking, agriculture and car
manufacturing, and new high-tech industries, predominantly
telecommunications and information technology.
Although much of Rennes's Medieval and Renaissance architecture was
destroyed in the fire of 1720, some of this remains intact, mainly in
the small area between the Places des Lices and the city's two
rivers. Here, on the rues Saint-Sauveur, Saint-Georges, de
Saint-Malo and Saint-Guillaume, the coloured timber-framed houses and
narrow streets give a flavour of what the city must have been like in
the Middle Ages. Elsewhere, the city is dominated by its imposing
yet elegant edifices of the 18th century, and a mix of more recent
architectural styles. The city is particularly well endowed with
sacred buildings, foremost of which is the
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Rennes.
One of the grandest of Brittany's cathedrals, this was built between
1756 and 1845, in the prevailing neo-classical style, on the site of an
earlier cathedral which had to be demolished. The austerity of
the cathedral's exterior makes a stark contrast with its rich interior
adornments, the highlight of which is the chancel vault, which is
decorated with a painting depicting Christ giving St Peter the keys to
the kingdom of heaven. The two transepts each possess a sumptuous
chapel adorned with some remarkable frescos, but the pièce de
résistance is the 16th century Flemish altarpiece, decorated
with 80 figures.
There are several other eye-catching churches in the city centre.
Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine, a 17th century church of neo-classical
design, served as the city's cathedral during the first half of the
19th century whilst the official cathedral (Cathédrale
Saint-Pierre de Rennes) was being rebuilt. Nearby is the
Basilique Saint-Sauveur de Rennes, striking in its classical
simplicity. In the heart of the new town is the Église
Saint-Germain, a church of Flamboyant Gothic style built in the 15th
and 16th centuries. Its distinguishing feature is its stained
glass windows, some of which date from the period when it was built.
Église Sainte-Thérèse is an Art-Deco style church
built in the 1930s and decorated with mosaics by Isidore Odorico.
Badly damaged by fire in 2001, it was restored and reopened in
2004. The former Gothic chapel Hôpital Saint-Yves currently
serves as a museum on the history of Rennes and houses the city's
tourist information centre.
One of Rennes's most prominent landmarks is the 17th century
Palais du parlement de Bretagne,
the law courts which gave Rennes its status as the capital of
Brittany. This majestic building was designed by Salomon de
Brosse, the architect of the Luxembourg Palace in Paris. Although
it was spared by the fire of 1720, it was partly destroyed by another
fire in 1994 (caused by a flare thrown when a demonstration turned into
an angry riot). It was restored at a cost of 53 million
euros. The building's grandest room is the Salle des pas-perdus,
with its vaulted ceiling lavishly decorated with the arms of France and
Brittany. The Portes Mordelaises (Mordelaises Gate) is a
two-towered châtelet with a drawbridge which dates from the 15th
century and is Rennes's only surviving town gate. Nearby are the
sad remains of the city's ancient fortifications. The Halles
Martenot, built in the late 19th century by Jean-Baptiste Martenot, is
where the lively
Marché des
Lices takes place every Saturday morning, a great place to buy
fresh produce and local delicacies.
Rennes's largest museum is its
Musée
des beaux-arts (Fine Arts Museum), situated on the Quai Emile
Zola, on the south bank of the River Vilaine. This houses a
panoply of European art from the 14th to the 20th centuries, comprising
paintings, engravings and sculptures,with work by Rubens, Jordaens,
Guardi, Boudin, Sisley, Gauguin and Picasso. There is also a
wealth of artefacts and objets d'art, from antiquity, the Middle Ages
and more recent times. Not far from the Musée des
beaux-arts is the
Champs Libres,
a vast modern cultural centre, a few minutes' walk south of the River
Vilaine. This brings together under one roof several educational
and cultural spaces, including the
Musée
de Bretagne (a museum dedicated to the history of Brittany) and
l'Espace des Sciences (a science
centre with its own planetarium), and the city's main public
library. Other interesting museums include: the
Musée des Transmissions
(Museum of Broadcasting) at Cesson-Sévigné, to the west
of Rennes city centre; and
Ecomusée
du Pays de Rennes (at Bintinais Farm, south of the city),
offering a fascinating insight into how life on a Breton farm has
changed since the Middle Ages.
Dominating the west side of the city centre is
Parc Thabor, Rennes's largest and
most beautiful park. Created in the late 1800s, it covers an area
of 10 hectares and includes a formal French garden, a rose garden, an
orangery, an aviary and a botanical garden with a bewildering variety
of plants. Other parks offered by the city are: Parc
Oberthür and Parc de Bréquigny. Rennes is proud of
its reputation as one of France's leading cultural centres and
organises several festivals each year. The best known of these is
Les Tombées de la Nuit,
a lavish arts festival which offers numerous spectacles and a wide
range of musical events, in the first week of July.
The nearest airport to Rennes is Rennes-St. Jacques Airport, about 7 km
southwest of the city centre. This is utilised by full service
and low cost airlines that offer flights to a limited number of
European destinations, including Paris, Lyon, Nice, Bordeaux,
Southampton, Birmingham, Manchester, Dublin and Belfast. The
city's main train station is Gare de Rennes, which provides a high
speed (TGV) rail service to Paris and a standard service to several
other French cities, including Nantes, Brest, Quimper and St.
Brieuc. Rennes has an excellent public transport system
comprising an extensive bus and metro network, centred on the Place de
la République in the city centre.