Cherbourg-Octeville is large sea port in the Manche department of the
Lower Normandy region of north-western France. It lies at the
head of the Cotentin Peninsular and is protected by the world's largest
manmade breakwater The town, formed from the merger of
neighbouring Cherbourg and Octeville in February 2000, is both a
thriving commercial port and an important naval base. Having
sustained extensive damage in the Second World War, Cherbourg was
rebuilt without much thought and is far from being the most attractive
of towns on the Normandy coastline. Most of the travellers who
arrive at the busy ferry port are en route to other, more inspiring,
destinations. The town's attractions are mainly cultural (its
museums are among the best in this part of France), although its
beaches manage to attract a fair number of holidaymakers in the summer.
Cherbourg's history as a port goes back to the times when the Cotentin
Peninsula was conquered by the Vikings. Repeatedly invaded by the
Normans in the 9th century, the town became part of the Duchy of
Normandy in 933. It was fiercely fought over by the French and English
throughout the 100 Years War and served as the bridgehead for the
English invasion of France. Because of its strategic location,
Cherbourg was developed into a major naval port at the time of Louis
XVI and Napoleon I. The town was briefly occupied by the British
in 1758 during the Seven Years War and was fortified in the Napoleonic
era to resist attack by the British navy. Cherbourg was ravaged
when the Allies fought to liberate the town from the occupying German
army in June 1944.
Cherbourg-Octeville's attractions are few and far between, and it has
little of the charm that it portrays in the famous Jacques Demy musical
film Les Parapluies de Cherbourg.
Apart from its beaches, the only thing to detain a visitor are its
museums, although it should be said that these are all of exceptional
quality. The Musée
d'Art Thomas-Henry is the third most important art museum in
Normandy, with a collection of over 300 paintings and sculptures from
the 15th to 20th centuries, as well as a substantial ceramics
exhibition. The paintings represent the French, Flemish, Spanish
and Italian schools, and include work by Chardin, David, Fra Angelico
and Millet. Also of interest is the Point du Jour, the town's
contemporary art centre, dedicated to photography.
The Musée de la Guerre et de
la Libération (Liberation Museum) traces the day-to-day
lives of people living in Cherbourg at the time of the Occupation and
covers the Liberation, in particular the Battle of Cherbourg, in some
detail. It is situated in an old fort on the Montagne du Roule,
where the outnumbered Germans put a defiant resistance against the
Allies in 1944. The fort itself offers some stunning views of the
city. Of more interest to families is La Cité de la Mer (City of
the Sea), which offers visitors a taste of underwater
exploration. Situated in the town's old transatlantic railway
station, this provides a three-hour long tour which takes in an old
French army submarine and a vast aquarium stocked with fascinating
marine life. The Muséum
d'Ethnographie, d'Histoire naturelle et d'Archéologie,
Cherbourg's oldest museum, displays a wealth of natural history
exhibits, including fossils and shells. It also has a collection
of archaeological artefacts from Greece, Egypt and Asia.
The Parc Emmanuel Liais is an
attractive park and botanical garden which was left to the city in the
1890s by Emmanuel Liais, the son of a wealthy shipbuilder.
Liais was both an astronomer and an avid botanist and amassed an
impressive collection of plant specimens. Today the garden
contains over 500 species of plants, including some rare and exotic
varieties. The town's historical ecclesial
buildings are also worth checking out. These include the 12th
century Église Notre-Dame du
Voeu, which was repeatedly ransacked during the Anglo-French
wars and served as a hospital, prison and barracks in Napoleonic
times. Another interesting old church is the Basilique de la Trinité,
which was founded in the 11th century at the request of William the
Conqueror. This was renovated in the mid-19th century in the
neo-flamboyant Gothic style.
A standard train service operates from Cherbourg-Octeville to Paris via
Caen (the journey time being about six hours). There is a ferry
service to Portsmouth and Poole in the UK and Rosslare in
Ireland. The nearest airport is Cherbourg Maupertus, in nearby
Maupertus-sur-Mer, 11 km to the east of the town.