Brest is a large city on the west Atlantic coast of France, in the
Finistère department of the Brittany region. Strategically
located in a sheltered position on the Léon peninsular near the
western extremity of Brittany, Brest has long been recognised as in
important naval seaport, and today it is the second largest military
port in France (after Toulon). Brest is no longer the industrial
city it once was and nowadays its economy is dominated by the service
sector, although it is also a major centre of education, with its large
university and several elite schools, including the École Navale
(French Naval Academy). As almost the entire town was destroyed
in the Second World War and too hastily rebuilt in concrete, Brest has
little to offer in the way of historical architecture, but this is made
up for by the stunning landscapes that wrap around it, offering ample
scope for coastal walks, sunbathing, fishing, sailing and other water
sports. It is also an extremely good place to experience
traditional Breton culture.
Brest originated as a fortified Roman camp, Gesocribate, built at the
end of the 3rd century AD. Previously, the region had been under
the control of Armorican Gauls. As the town became vulnerable to
attack from marauding Saxons and Normans from the 7th century, its
defences were progressively shored up, so that by the Middle Ages it
had become a heavily fortified castle city. Through its maritime
trade, Brest became prosperous and a rival power to the Duchy of
Brittany. Following the marriage of Francis I to Claude,
the daughter of Anne of Brittany, Brest and Brittany were both absorbed
into the kingdom of France. It was Cardinal Richelieu who first
saw the value of Brest as a military seaport and, in 1631, he ordered
the construction of a harbour and arsenal there. Over the next
century, this developed into a fortified naval base and busy
shipbuilding centre. In 1750, the Breton engineer Antoine Choquet
de Lindu built the notorious Brest prison, whose best known escapee is
the arch-criminal Vidocq. From the mid-1700s to the mid-1800s,
Brest's importance declined owing to a permanent blockade by the
British navy. The town recovered its prestige in the mid-19th
century when Napoléon III paid a visit and authorised several
major building projects, including the creation of a commercial port
and expansion of its arsenal. Brest was the landing point for
American troops during the First World War but was almost completely
destroyed in World War II by Allied bombardments (to destroy a German
submarine base in the harbour) and the subsequent Battle for
Brest. The city was quickly rebuilt after the war, with granite
and concrete buildings replacing its ruined historic buildings.
Brest's industries would show a steady decline towards the end of the
20th century. Today its economy depends heavily on its service
sector and tourism.
Very little remains of Brest's historic architecture following its
virtual decimation in the Second World War (only four buildings were
left standing in the city centre after its liberation in 1944).
The city consists mainly of modern concrete constructions, although
there are a few older buildings, mainly in the
Recovrance part of the town (on the
west side of the River Penfeld). It is here that the oldest
surviving building in Brest is to be found, the 17th century Maison de
la Fontaine. One of Brest's oldest monuments is
Tanguy Tower, a 14th century round
tower which now houses a museum dedicated to local history.
The recently restored
Questel Fort
was built in the 18th century as part of Louis XVI's initiative to
bolster Brittany's defences against a possible English attack.
L'Église Saint-Sauveur de
Recouvrance is a Jesuit-style church that dates from the
mid-1700s and is the oldest church in Brest. Although it was
controversial when it was first built in the 1950s, the
Église Saint-Louis is a
striking example of modernist architecture, which is noted for the
quality of the modern art that adorns its interior. Its most
striking feature is its stained glass windows depicting the seven
founding Breton saints and various Biblical scenes. This replaced
an earlier church that was destroyed in World War II.
Brest has quite a wide range of museums. The
Musée de la Tour Tanguy,
located in the Tanguy tower, is dedicated to the history of Brest and
includes some impressive dioramas which illustrate the city of Brest as
it was before WWII. The
Musée
national de la Marine de Brest is sited in a medieval castle and
represents Brest's maritime tradition through a large collection of
models, paintings and sculptures. Adjacent to this is
Océanopolis, a huge aquarium
comprising three zones (polar, tropical and temperate) which allows
visitors to explore the marvels of the world's oceans. This
exhibits over a thousand species of marine animals and includes one of
Europe's largest penguin pools. The
Musée des beaux-arts is
Brest's principal art gallery, replacing one that was obliterated
during World War II. It offers a diverse collection of French and
Italian art from the 16th to 19th centuries, including several works of
Pont-Aven post-impressionism, as well as some interesting examples of
modern art. The
Musée
mémorial Fort Montbarey recounts the history of
Finistère during the Second World War and its liberation by the
Allies.
The landscape around Brest is a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts,
offering sandy beaches, grottos, coastal and hillside walks, and
breathtaking granite cliffs. One of the main attractions in the
Brest region is the
Conservatoire
botanique national de Brest,
situated in the vallon du Stang-Alar. This is a world-class
botanical
reserve that covers an area of 25 hectares and includes 4000 species of
plant-life, of which 1500 are threatened with extinction. Other
attractive green open spaces in Brest are the
Jardin Kennedy, a park situated in
the southern part of the city centre, and the
Rives de Penfeld, a picturesque
river setting in the north-east of the town, an ideal spot for jogging
and walking.
Brest's regional airport (l'Aéroport de Brest Bretagne),
situated 10 km northeast of the city centre, is used by Air France and
several low cost airlines (RyanAir, Flybe, easyJet, and others) which
offer services to a limited number of European destinations (Paris,
Marseille, Lyon, Bordeaux, Birmingham, Manchester, Southampton and
Dublin). A ferry service operates to Plymouth and Cork. The
train station, Gare de Brest, provides connections to Paris, Rennes and
Quimper, the shortest journey time to Paris being about four hours.