Angers is a busy modern city in the northwest of France, the capital of
the Maine-et-Loire department in the region of Pays de la Loire.
It is situated on both banks of the River Maine, 300 km southwest of
Paris, and is steeped in history. As the capital of the ancient
county of Anjou and nexus of the Plantagenet dynasty, Angers occupies
an important place in the history of France and England. Whilst
the city is rich in historic architecture, its main attractions are its
tapestries, in particular the 14th century
Apocalypse series exhibited in its
castle. Angers acquired the name
La ville noire (Black City)
because many of its buildings were constructed from dark-coloured stone
and slate, mined in nearby quarries. Today, Angers is a
prosperous centre of industry and learning, home to two prestigious
universities and a thriving manufacturing base. With its shops,
theatres, restaurants, vibrant nightlife and wealth of museums, it is
not hard to see why Angers is a popular tourist destination.
Angers originated as a densely populated settlement inhabited by the
Andecavi, a tribe of Gauls, from around the 5th century BC. The
city was named
Juliomagus
when the Gauls were conquered by the Romans, and renamed
Andecavis by the 4th century (from
which the name Angers derives). In the 9th century, the city was
repeatedly attacked by the Vikings. The Frankish noble Foulques
I became the first count of Anjou in 930, and managed to repel
attempts by neighbouring Normandy and Brittany to encroach on his
territories. Having ascended to the English throne, the Angevin
Plantagenet Henri II found himself in command of a substantial empire
that stretched as far as Ireland and the Pyrenees. This empire
collapsed when Philippe II of France took Normandy and Anjou in
1204. Because of its strategic importance against Brittany and
her English allies, Angers was heavily fortified and acquired the
nickname the Key to the Kingdom. In the 15th century, Angers
became an important centre of culture and commerce, under the
stewardship of the Angevin king, René le Bon, brother-in-law of
Charles VII of France. In 1474, Louis XI took Anjou away from
René and it was fully incorporated into the kingdom of France.
The importance of Angers in the Middle Ages is demonstrated by its
wealth of historic architecture from this era. The most prominent
example of this is the great castle fortress of Angers (Château
d'Angers). Built in the 13th century to protect the county of
Anjou from a possible attack from Brittany, it is equipped with no
fewer than 17 round towers and looks suitably indomitable on its rock
above the River Maine. Within the castle's impregnable walls is
arguably the most important medieval tapestry in the world, the 140
metre long Apocalypse. Representing the prophesy of Saint John,
this incomparable work of art was created in the 14th century by the
renowned weaver Nicolas Bataille at the request of Louis I of Anjou.
Built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the
Cathédrale Saint-Maurice has
a distinctive architectural style which is between Romanesque and
Gothic. The vaulting of the nave is the earliest example of what
is now known as the
Angevin style,
distinguished by its exaggerated convexity. The cathedral is
particularly renowned for its medieval stained glass windows, which
date from the 12th century and are of exceptional quality.
Adorning the cathedral's interior is a magnificent collection of
tapestries from the 14th century. In the vicinity of the
cathedral, there are several well-preserved houses of the Middle Ages
and Renaissance era. The most striking of these are the
Maison d'Adam, a tall timber-framed
house which dates to about 1500, and the
Hôtel Pincé, a
stone-walled mansion built in the 1520s which now houses an interesting
collection of enamels. Also within a stone's throw of the
cathedral is the
Tour Saint-Aubin,
a 54 metre high belfry tower of the 12th century, and the
Palais du Tau, the former Bishop's
Palace.
Of the many museums that Angers has to offer, the most fascinating is
the
Musée Jean Lurçat,
an impressive collection of tapestries from the 19th and 20th
centuries, housed in the 12th century Hospital of Saint-Jean. The
star exhibit is the
Chant du monde,
a series of ten tapestries created by the contemporary artist Jean
Lurçat between 1957 and 1966. These express a modern
version of the Apocalypse, Lurçat's vision of the world after
the creation of the atomic bomb. Equally visit-worthy is
the
Musée des Beaux-Arts,
the city's main fine arts museum which is located in the Logis
Barrault, a late 15th century mansion. This offers a vast
collection of paintings and sculptures from the 14th century to the
present daty, with work by such diverse artists as Jordaens, Chardin,
Boucher, David, Corot, Ingrès and Monet. The
Musée Pincé is a
museum that is primarily focused on art from antiquity (ancient Greece
and Roman times), although it also includes art from Egypt and the Far
East. The
Galérie David
d'Angers is housed in the 13th century Abbatiale Toussaint
(All Saints Abbey) and exhibits bronze and marble statues by the great
Angevin sculptor Jean-Pierre David (1788-1856). Sited in the
Hôtel Demarie-Valentin, the
Muséum
d'histoire naturelle d'Angers is a natural history museum with a
large collection of animals and fossils.
Boasting 40 square metres of green space for each of its inhabitants,
Angers has good reason to be proud of its reputation as the Flower
City. There is an abundance of parks and gardens to be found in
Angers, and first on any visitor's list should be the
Jardin des plantes near the city
centre. Covering an area of 4 hectares, this is the city's main
botanical garden and includes wooded areas and beautifully landscaped
vistas of flowers. Other public gardens include the
Jardin du mail and the
Jardin botanique de la Faculté de
Pharmacie d'Angers. A five minute car journey away, to the
southwest of the city centre, is the stunning nature reserve
Parc de loisirs du Lac de Maine,
which is a great place to explore the wild fauna and flora of the
region as well as participate in a wide range of sporting activities,
from golf to windsailing.
The nearest commercial airports to Angers are those at Paris, Nantes
and Bordeaux.
Gare d'Angers
Saint-Laud is the city's main railway station and provides a
high speed (TGV) service to several cities, including Paris, Nantes,
Lyon, Strasbourg and Marseille. Angers is well-served by its bus
network.