Limoges is a city in west-central France, the capital of both the
Haute-Vienne department and the Limousin region. The largest town on
the River Vienne, Limoges is a lively modern city that remains wedded to
its colourful past via its historic architecture. It is most
famous for its Medieval enamels and its 19th century porcelain, which
have earned it the epthet "la capitale des arts du feu". It has
also been nicknamed the ville rouge (Red City) on account of its record
of strikes in the late 19th century and its part in the creation of the
Confédération générale du travail (CGT),
one of France's main trades union confederations. Although a
modern industrial city, Limoges is a thriving tourist centre and a
popular holiday destination.
The city was founded as Augustoritum by the Romans, circa 10 BC, when
the Gaulish provinces were being reorganised by the Emperor
Augustus. In around 250 AD, Saint Martial came from Rome to
evangelise the city and became its first bishop. By the end of
the 4th century, the city was prone to attack by Germanic tribes, so
the population moved to a safer site, Puy Saint-Étienne, near
the centre of modern Limoges. Over the following centuries, the
city developed in two sites:
La
Cité, controlled by the bishop, and
Le Château, controlled by the
monks who guarded the sacred tomb of Saint Martial. By the 11th
century, now part of the Duchy of Aquitaine, Limoges flourished as a
centre of art and learning. In 1370, during the 100 Years War,
Limoges's urban split was accentuated when La Cité sided with
the French whilst Le Château remained loyal to the English
crown. That same year, La Cité was ransacked by the Black
Prince. By the end of the Middle Ages, Limoges had become part of
the kingdom of France under Henri IV. The city was relatively
unscathed by the religious wars of the 16th century and prospered in
the 18th century through its textile and leather manufacture
industries. In 1792, La Cité and Le Château, were
unified into the single city of Limoges. The discovery, in 1765,
of the clay mineral kaolin in Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche, 40 km south of
Limoges transformed the city and made it one of the world's most
important manufacturers of porcelain. The city saw considerable
development in the 19th century, with much of the city rebuilt to
accommodate the growing population and alleviate social unrest.
The area formerly known as Le Château is the heart of the Old
City and exhibits a dizzying mix of architectural styles. Grand
mansions of the 18th and 19th century are interspersed with Medieval
dwellings and houses built in the first half of the 20th century,
including impressive Art Deco structures. Dominating
Limoges's historic centre is the imposing
Cathédrale St-Étienne,
a Gothic cathedral which dates back to the late 13th century and is
noted for its octagonal bell tower, its elaborate 16th century north
façade and the finely sculptured tomb of the bishop Jean de
Langeac. To the west of the cathedral is the partially renovated
Old City, which includes the quaint
Village
de la Boucherie, a maze of narrow streets (dating from the
Middle Ages to the 17th century) that was once occupied by the guild of
butchers but which today is the site of some of the city's best
restaurants. Just as attractive is
L'Abbessaille, a Medieval area with
steep narrow streets which stretches from the River Vienne to the
cathedral.
L'Église Saint-Pierre du
Queyroix is one of the principal churches in the Le
Château quarter of the Old City. Constructed between the
13th and 16th centuries, it is a striking example of Gothic
architecture and contains several remarkable statues and a magnificent
altarpiece.
The Chapelle
Saint-Aurélien dates from the 14th century and houses the relics
of St. Aurelian, the second bishop of Limoges, as well as a striking
Baroque altarpiece and some beautiful statues.
L'Église Saint-Michel-des-Lions
is a Gothic church, built between the 14th and 16th centuries, which
contains the relics of St Martial. It is distinguished by its 65
m high tower, with a bronze sphere mounted on its steeple, and some
impressive 15th century stained glass windows. The famous
Saint-Martial Crypt is situated on the Place de la République
and contains the tombs of Saint Martial, the first bishop of the town,
and Sainte Valérie. Lost for hundreds of years, this
was discovered by chance during building works in the 1960s.
The Bishop's Palace (
Palais de
l'Évêché) is an 18th century building of
neo-classical design which now houses the city's Fine Arts
Museum. Of the city's many attractions, the most fascinating are
the uncovered remains of the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre, which was one of
the main features of the Roman town of Augustoritum and the largest of
its kind in Gaul. Other landmarks include the many Medieval
bridges across the River Vienne (notably
le pont de Saint-Michel) and the
Pavillon du Verdurier, an Art
Déco styled public space which now serves as an exhibition
centre.
The
Musée des beaux-arts de
Limoges (previously known as the
Musée Municipal de
l'Évêché) is housed in the Bishop's Palace,
near to the cathedral in the historic city centre. Limoges's
largest museum, its main attraction is a collection of enamelware which
dates back to the 12th century. Its other exhibits include
sculptures, archaeological findings and paintings by such masters as
Renoir, Delacroix, Chagall and Matisse. The
Musée national de la porcelaine
Adrien Dubouché (situated on the Place Winston
Churchill) pays homage to the city's main industry, porcelain
manufacture, and offers a remarkable collection of porcelain and china
from around the world. The two museums in the rue de
Belfort - the
Musée des
Distilleries limougeaudes and
La
maison traditionnelle de la Boucherie - provide an insight into
two of Limoges's other main industries, brewing and butchery. The
Enamel Workshop (31 rue des Tanneries) exhibits traditional enamel
production techniques.
Limoges is endowed with a large number of beautifully landscaped parks
and gardens. These include
les
Jardins de l'Évêché (adjacent to the
Bishop's Palace),
le parc Victor
Thuillat,
le Jardin d'Orsay
and
le Champ de Juillet
(situated near the
Gare des
Bénédictins). The city is host to several
festivals and other cultural events throughout the year,
including:
le Festival des
Francophonies en Limousin, an international festival of
francophone theatre;
le Festival du
court-métrage de Limoges, which allows amateur and
professional filmmakers to screen their short films; and the jazz
festival
Éclats d'émail.
Limoges International Airport is situated about 15 minutes from the
city centre by car and is served by Air France, Ryanair, FlyBe and Brit
Air. The city's main train station is
Gare des Bénédictins,
which offers connections to other cities in France, including Paris,
Bordeaux, Toulouse and Lyon. The city has a good public transport
system, including a network of buses and trolleybuses.