Palermo is the capital of Sicily, situated in the northwest of the
island on the Gulf of Palermo in the Tyrrhenian Sea. An ancient
city, it is renowned for its culture, architecture and
cuisine, all of which are strongly influenced by North Africa, Italy
and Spain. Palermo's cultural diversity is most evident in its
historic buildings, which show a distinctive mix of European and Arabic
styles.
Palermo was founded by the Phoenicians, but it was the Ancient Greeks
who gave it its name,
Panormus,
meaning
Port of All.
After being absorbed into the Roman Empire, it came under the control
of various Germanic tribes in the 5th century, before becoming part of
the Byzantine Empire. Between the 9th and 11th centuries, under
Arab domination, Palermo was one of the most prosperous cities on the
Mediterranean. Following the Norman invasion of the 11th century,
Palermo was chosen as the capital of the newly established Kingdom of
Sicily, which would endure until 1816. Over this period, it
became one of the wealthiest states in Europe, although ownership of
the island passed between many hands, including the Holy Roman Empire,
the Angevins, the Spanish and the Houses of Savoy and Bourbon.
Shortly after it was joined with the Kingdom of Naples to form the Two
Sicilies, Sicily became part of a united Italy in 1861.
During World War II, Palermo was heavily bombed by the Allies, and
parts of the city still remain in ruins. Today, Palermo is a
thriving centre of trade, education and tourism.
The main attraction of Palermo is its old city centre, which shows a
remarkably diverse range of architectural styles, some of which are
unique to Sicily. A good place to start a tour of the city is the
Quattro Canti (Piazza
Vigliena), the small octagonal square at the heart of the Old
Quarter. This lies at the crossing point of two ancient roads
(now named
Corso Vittorio Emanuele
and
Via Maqueda) which divide
the city centre into four quarters. Around the square there are
many impressive landmarks, including several fountains and Baroque
buildings. Adjacent to this is the
Piazza Pretoria, Palermo's most
elegant square, at the centre of which is the
Fontana Pretoria, a beautifully
sculptured fountain designed by Francesco Camilliani in 1554.
Also nearby is
San Giuseppe dei
Teatini, one of the more grandiose examples of Baroque
architecture in Palermo. Heading westwards down the Corso
Vittorio Emanuele from the Quattro Canti, we come to Palermo's most
visible landmark, Palermo Cathedral (
Duomo
di Palermo), which dates to the 12th century. The city's
largest sacred building, it flaunts several architectural styles,
including Arab-Norman, Gothic and Renaissance. One of the
cathedral's more interesting features is its 17th century heliometer
(solar observatory), an instrument that was devised to standardise the
calendar.
The area of the Old Quarter with the most eye-catching architecture is
the
Kalsa district, which is
distinguished by its fusion of European and Arabic styles. The
narrow winding streets are evocative of Morocco, yet the buildings show
a curious mix of Gothic, Baroque and Arabic traditions. Among the
more interesting historical monuments in this area are: the 12th
century Magione Church, a fine example of Norman workmanship;
Santa Teresa alla Kalsa, a stunning
16th century Baroque church; and the Greek Gate (situated on the east
side of the Piazza Kalsa). One of the more interesting sacred
buildings in the Kalsa district is the Church of St. Francis of Assisi (
Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi).
This
was built in the 13th century on the site of two
previous churches, and has been renovated many times in its
history.
Its most striking features are its beautiful rose window and decorated
portal. When the church was restored after being bombed in WWII,
its more recent neoclassical additions were discarded in favour of its
older medieval features. The interior has both Baroque and
Renaissance
characteristics and houses several treasures, including sculptures by
Giacomo Gagini and Francesco Laurana. An order of
Franciscan monks still lives in the adjoining monastery
The
Palazzo dei Normanni
(Royal Palace of Palermo) is one of Palermo's grandest buildings, the
historic seat of the Kings of Sicily which, since 1946, has housed the
Sicilian Regional Assembly. Built between the 9th and 12th
centuries, this contains one of Palermo's most visited attraction, the
Palatine Chapel (
Cappella Palatina),
the best example of Arab-Norman-Byzantine architecture on the
island. The chapel interior is exquisitely furnished with a
wooden roof, Saracen arches and elaborate Byzantine mosaics. Near
to this is
San Giovanni degli Eremiti
(St John of the Hermits), a 12th century church whose bright red dome
makes a striking contrast with its Gothic bell tower.
Chiesa della Martorana, also known
as
Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio
(Saint Mary of the Admiral) is on the
Piazza
Bellini in the city centre. The campanile, ornately decorated
with three orders of arches and lodges, serves as the main entrance to
the church. The handsome Baroque façade visible from the
square is a later addition.
Santa
Maria della Catena dates from the 15th century and owes its name
to the fact that there is a chain on one of its walls which closed the
port of Cala.
Chiesa del
Gesù (the Church of the Jesus) is a Jesuit church of the
16th century which exhibits both Baroque and Renaissance styles.
Although it was bombed in 1943, much of the church remains intact, its
interior including some particularly fine marble decorations.
The
Palazzo Chiaramonte-Steri
dates from the 14th century and served as the residence of the powerful
Sicilian lord Manfredi III Chiaramonte. In the 17th and 18th
centuries, this accommodated the tribunal of the Holy
Inquisition. It now serves as a museum, its exhibits including
Renato Guttuso's
Vucciria.
Zisa Castle (
Castello della Zisa)
was built in the 12th century and shows the influence of Moorish
architecture. The residence of several kings of Palermo, it now
houses an Islamic art museum. Another important castle of the
same period is
La Cuba, a
huge cube-shaped edifice of Arab-Norman design that is to be found on
the Corso Calatafimi. Originally a royal palace, La Cuba later
served as a leper colony and military barracks.
Palazzo Abatellis is a huge palace
that dates from the 15th century, predominantly Catalan-Gothic in
style. It is now the home of the Regional Gallery (
Galleria Regionale della Sicilia),
which houses a bust of Eleonora of Aragon by Francesco Laurana.
The
Museo Archeologico Regionale
is one of Italy's most important archaeological museums, with a large
collection of artefacts from Etruscan, Carthaginian, Roman and Greek
eras. The
Civica Galleria
d'Arte Moderna Empedocle Restivo is a museum of art with a
collection of paintings (mostly landscapes by local artists) of the
19th and early 20th centuries. The
Teatro Massimo, the largest theatre
in Italy, was opened in 1897 to celebrate Italy's unification.
Famously used as a location for the film
The Godfather III, this has
recently been restored to its former glory.
The Catacombs of the Capuchin (
Catacombe
dei Cappuccini) lie beneath the Capuchins Monastery, just west
of the city centre. From the 16th to the 19th century, this was
the preferred place of burial for Sicilians of all classes and is known
to contain the mummified remains of over 8,000 men, women and
children. Some of the bodies are so well-preserved that you might
think they are merely asleep. This is one of Sicily's more
macabre tourist attractions. On a more fragrant note, the
Orto botanico di Palermo is the
largest botanical garden in Italy. Created in 1785, it covers an
area of 10 hectares and has over 12,000 species of plant. It
includes a herbarium, several greenhouses containing plants from
hot-arid zones, an aquarium and several exquisitely arranged
flowerbeds. If you feel the need to escape from the city, head
for Monreale, a village 8 km to the west of the city. This is
situated on a hill that offers some fantastic views of Palermo and the
surrounding landscape.
Palermo International Airport is 35 km northwest of the city centre at
Punta Raisi and is operated by a number of low cost and full service
airlines, with flights to several Italian cities and other European
destinations, including Naples, Milan, Brussels, London, Madrid, Moscow
and Paris. A shuttle bus runs regularly from the airport to the
city centre. There is also a ferry service from Palermo to
several Italian ports, including Genoa, Naples and Cagliari.
Palermo has a 2-line metro system called the
Metropolitana di Palermo and an
efficient bus network.