Treviso is an attractive historic city in the Veneto region of
northeast Italy. It lies at the confluence of the Rivers
Botteniga and Sile, 30 km to the north of Venice and 50 km east of
Vicenza. Unlike Venice, it does not depend on tourism for its
prosperity and is a thriving industrial centre, the headquarters of
clothing retailer Benetton and bicycle manufacturer Pinarello.
Although overshadowed by nearby Venice, Treviso has considerable charm
and is worth visiting for its historic monuments and surrounding
countryside. It serves as a convenient base from which to explore
the Veneto region.
The ancient city of Tarvisium is believed to derive its name from a
settlement of the Taurusci, a Celtic tribe. Inhabited by the
Veneti, it became a Roman city in 89 BC and prospered through its
proximity to the Via Postumia. After the fall of Rome, it came
under the control of the Ostrogoths and then the Byzantines. In
568 it was conquered by the Lombards, who made it one of their ducal
seats and the site of an important mint. Treviso was later
captured by the Franks and became the capital of a border March.
Having joined the Lombard League, the city gained independence after
the Peace of Constance in 1183. Subsequently, it was ruled by
various rival wealthy families before surrendering to the Republic of
Venice early in the 14th century. Although the city prospered
under Venetian rule, it was caught up in Venice's wars. In
1797, Treviso was captured by the French and remained under French
control until the fall of Napoleon. It was then annexed by the
Austria-Hungarian Empire and was governed by Austria until it became
part of the united Kingdom of Italy in 1866. During the Second
World War, a large part of the historic city centre was destroyed by
Allied bombardment, although much of this has since been restored.
The historic centre covers a small area within the imposing city walls
and is best explored on foot. With its maze of narrow streets and
arcaded walkways, this part of Treviso has a distinctly
vecchia Italia character to
it. The best place to start a tour of the city is the
Piazza dei Signori, the main
square, which is dominated by the 13th century
Palazzo dei Trecento (currently
used as the town hall) and the 15th century
Palazzo di Podestà.
From this square runs the
Via
Calmaggiore, the main shopping street, which leads to the
Duomo (cathedral). Dedicated
to St. Peter, the Duomo is recognisable by its seven domes, but this is
far from being Treviso's most attractive monument. It originated
as a small Roman chapel, although the only part of the original Roman
structure to survive is its gate. The interior contains several
priceless works of art by such artists as Titian and Il
Pordenone. The main attraction is the crypt, in which there are
several fragments of medieval frescos. The cathedral is situated
on the uninspiring
Piazza del Duomo,
which is used as a car park.
Far more eyecatching than the Duomo is the
church of San Francesco, which is
distinguished by its huge ship's keel roof. A fine example of
late Romanesque, early Gothic architecture, this was built in the 13th
century. Its interior has a single nave with five chapels and
contains some remarkable medieval frescos, as well as the tombs of,
among others, Pietro Alighieri, the son of Dante. Treviso's other
notable sacred builing is the
Chiesa
di San Nicolò, a 13th century church which exhibits both
Venetian Romanesque and French Gothic styles. The interior is
richly adorned by some extraordinary frescos by the great 14th century
artist Tomaso da Modena, whose work is very much in evidence throughout
the city.
On the
Piazza Rinaldi there
are three palaces that were once owned by the Rinald family, dating
from the 12th to the 18th century. The
Loggia dei Cavalieri was built by
the podestà Andrea da Perugia as a meeting place in 1276 and
shows a Romanesque style influenced by Byzantine forms. The
Monte di Pietà was
originally used by Jewish moneylenders. On the second floor is the
Cappella dei Rettori, used for lay
meetings, with frescoes by Pozzoserrato. On the east side of the
city, across the canal, there are some other notable monuments,
foremost of which is the 16th century
Porta
San Tomaso, striking with its ornately sculptured façade.
The
Museo di Santa Caterina
is the city's principal museum, housed in a former church and
convent. This comprises the Civic Museum, an art gallery and
archaeological collection. The centrepiece of the church is a
series of recently restored frescos by Tomaso da Modena. The
city's parks and gardens include the
Giardino
Fenologico and two botanical gardens:
Orto Botanico Conservativo Carlo Spegazzini
and
Orto Botanico Conservativo
Francesco Busnello. The
Ponte
di Pria (Stone Bridge) stands at the meeting point of the Canal
Grande and the Buranelli Channels. The city ramparts are a good
place to walk, offering attractive views of the city and surrounding
countryside.
Treviso is served by Venezia (Treviso) Airport, which is used mainly by
low cost airlines that offer flights to a limited number of European
destinations. Venice Marco Polo Airport is further afield but
provides a far wider selection of national and international
destinations, and is connected to Treviso by bus and train. A bus
service operates within the city. Venice and other popular
tourist destinations (Padua and Vicenza) are within easy reach of
Treviso by train and coach.